I'm on about 14 days so far and no signs of roots is this too long? Chiceh Global Mod, Stoner Chic. Did you use a rooting hormone? Keep they moist, not too wet. How tall are they? Do they look healthy? Are you misting the leaves daily? I use a dome too to keep em warm and humid. Chiceh said:. GreenGro said:. Yes used rooting hormone, yes kept moist in a heated propagator, I wouldnt say too wet. Yes been misting and they look fine all standing straight when I pull on them they seem solid like they are rooted but still no roots What do you think?
All nice and green and looking fine, keeping the plugs just moist. Under a humidity tent and in 18 hours light not6 much I can do about this So I'll just leave them longer. So it's been 3 weeks now and still nothing. Whats the consensus, How long is too long?
We have had them take up to a month with purple strains not sure if it is normal or not. Place the cloner under normal daylight. Traditional cloning with soils is an easy yet efficient method. Just get the soils saturated enough. Dip your cutting into the rooting hormones for 15 — 30 seconds, then place it into the potting soil. Prepare the water minutes before starting to get the water in the cup close to the water of the room temperature.
Use a tip of a pen, or scissors to poke a hole in the cling-wrap or plastic. Make sure the hole size is smaller than the cutting stem to keep it tight into the pot.
Now, put the cutting into the pot, keeping its end at least 5 cm under the water. Place the cloning pot under the indirect sunlight, or low grow lights. Cloning machines seem to be the most efficient and quickest way to propagate plants.
It is effective for some reasons. First, your cutting is not immersed in water but is constantly misted with low-pressure water, which avoids diseases for the fragile roots. Third, you can do multiple clones at one time. The most important thing you is to get a cloning machine. And all the steps are very easy to do as follows. For details about choosing and how to use the cloning machines, you can read our past post. If not, you should. The humidity dome does help keep the moisture and humidity for your clones.
Cutting does poorly in cold places, so keep it in warm areas. The perfect temperature is at about 70 — 75oF oc. If the surrounding environment place is low in temperature, you can use a heater or a heating mat to keep the temperature in place. If you cannot provide the cloners with enough daylight, you need to give it some grow lights. The rest 6 hours of darkness is essential because it is mostly the time when the roots form. If you grow with rockwool, and soils, you need to mist them daily.
For water cloning method, be sure to check the water too if it is drained, contaminated and needs replacing. For cloning with machines, the misting is done automatically. There are many different specialized cloning conditioners rooting solutions that will provide small sustenance for plants with emerging roots. A diluted bloom fertilizer about one-quarter of the regular dosage can be used as a substitute in a pinch. Foam cloners for aeroponics. Growers who use an aeroponic cloner will not need to condition the medium for cloning.
Once the clone is taken and the rooting gel has been applied, the clone can be placed in the machine. Many growers use straight water in the clone machine, although I always prefer mixing a little vitamin B-1 and some rooting solution. The biggest problem with clone machines is keeping the unit sterilized between each use.
One solution is running the machine with a concentrated hydrogen peroxide solution between clone cycles. Another solution is using a diluted bleach solution to clean the machine and the neoprene inserts. Just be sure to triple rinse any piece of equipment that was cleaned with bleach, ensuring all residual chemicals are removed. Clones generally do not need intense lighting. A fluorescent lighting system is more than enough for a cloning tray or aeroponic clone machine.
There have been many debates over red versus blue light and how each affects rooting, but I have had equal success with all kinds of light spectrums. One thing is certain—a grower does not need intense light for successful cloning.
In fact, light energy that is too intense will hinder the process. Growers can get good results with an or hour lights-on period. I prefer a hour lights-on period because it makes maintaining a consistent temperature easier. Successful cloning is largely determined by environmental conditions. As they are not yet established plants, clones require environmental conditions that differ from the other plants in an indoor garden. To rectify this problem, many gardeners will create a specific room or area for clones where the environmental conditions can be kept in check.
All indoor garden plants thrive in consistent environmental conditions and no plant illustrates this better than a clone. A seedling heat mat may be the best tool to use to keep clones at a consistent temperature. For ultimate control, a thermostat can be connected to the heat mat and the desired temperature can be selected by the user.
Humidity is another environmental factor that affects clones. This high humidity is one of the factors that will stop the clone from completely wilting over because it is able to obtain some moisture from the surrounding air. A propagation dome is a great way for growers to keep a microclimate around clones and maintain a high level of humidity and a consistent temperature.
After the first few days, clones can slowly be acclimated to lower humidity. This can easily be done with many of the propagation domes, which include ventilation ports that can be opened or closed and are available through local hydroponics retailers.
By slightly cracking the ports more and more each day, a grower can slowly acclimate clones to the ambient humidity. If using a make-shift dome or a dome without ventilation ports, the dome can simply be removed for increased periods of time each day until clones have become acclimated. A good starting point would be 10 to 15 minutes the first day and then increased by that amount each day after. Clones can be acclimated to lower temperatures as well, but it is usually best to do this after the first signs of rooting have appeared.
After seven to 10 days, clones usually begin to show roots. Once clones are rooted and acclimated to the ambient humidity and temperature, they can be treated as vegetative plants. Clones can be transplanted into the desired medium and fed a slightly diluted vegetative fertilizer. It is a good idea to acclimate freshly rooted. A grower can raise the lights for a few days until the plants start to reach for it, and then incrementally lower the lights to the desired level. Scientist cutting plant tissue culture in petri dish.
A more scientific approach to cloning that has recently made headway in the hobbyist market is tissue culture cloning. Tissue culture allows gardeners to make clones from plant cells or tissue. Tissue culture cloning allows the gardener to grow a plant in a petri dish from the tiniest slice of plant tissue. The biggest advantage of this process is that any pathogens, diseases or pests infecting the donor plant will not be transferred to clones. Tissue culture also helps gardeners preserve rare and endangered species , or rescue embryos in distantly related cross-pollinated species.
The biggest disadvantage of tissue culture cloning is that it is an involved process that requires special equipment. For most hobbyists, standard cloning is a much more practical application. In the end, cloning is a simple way any gardener can replicate the best qualities found in their indoor garden.
Once indoor gardeners master the art of cloning, they have acquired the ability to perpetually produce their favorite plants.
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