Firing several rounds of known non-corrosive ammunition before shooting the corrosive stuff. Corrosion will still rear its ugly head a day or so after shooting. See photograph of test rod number 7. Disclaimer The following testing was NOT performed in a laboratory under laboratory conditions. The tests were conducted by and for the amusement of the author only.
Be advised that there is no guarantee suggested or implied that the methods tested herein are percent effective in the prevention of corrosion in firearms. The following tests were performed on steel rod stock, not actual firearms. The Test For the test, several mild steel rods. The ends of the rods were polished on a wire wheel and cleaned with alcohol to remove any traces of oil. Each rod was placed vertically and secured in a bench mounted vice. Proper ventilation was also required.
Surplus Romanian 7. The bullets were pulled from several of the cartridges, the powder dumped from the cases and discarded. Is your prized rifle or handgun doomed to a life in the rust bucket?
Not at all! The key to safely shooting corrosive ammo is getting all those corrosive salts out of your barrel and internals of your firearm using the most powerful solvent known to man.
It is none other than surfactant-infused dihydrogen oxide. I know that this isn't glamorous, but boiling water with soap is the best thing you can use to remove corrosive salts — and if you think about it, it makes perfect sense. If you wanted to dissolve salt in the kitchen, would you use vegetable oil or water? Therefore, we need to get that out first. A foaming bore cleaner is also acceptable.
Push a dry patch through with a jag when your barrel is sufficiently clean always push patches and brushes from the chamber to the end of the barrel. The next step is to wash out the corrosive salts left by the corrosive primers.
This is done simply by soaking your firearms parts in hot water or by pouring boiling water down the bore of your rifle if submersion is not ideal. Boiling water is ideal as it evaporates quicker. This step can be particularly tricky for semi-auto rifles because you need to thoroughly clean the gas system as this is where most of the corrosive salts will reside. My recommendation is to not shoot corrosive ammo in Direct Gas Impingement DGI rifles like the AR, as disassembling the gas system is a massive pain.
However, for short stroke gas piston rifles like the SKS and the AK, this is not too difficult to accomplish as these gas systems were designed to field strip easier. Make sure to pay special attention to the bolt face and bolt carrier group as there are lots of little nooks and crannies that corrosive salts can sneak into. There are some gunsmiths who recommend soaking in water combined with CLP or Ballistol.
These oils will both clean and lubricate your firearm parts after you remove them from the water, eliminating the need to dry your parts off. Every time I fired corrosive ammo in my Mosin Nagant, I simply used hot water or Windex to clean off my rifle parts. To put it bluntly, this is just silly. You can use Windex to clean your firearm parts and bore, but make certain it is the unscented, original Windex with actual ammonia in it some new versions use an analog.
Water can corrode your firearm just as fast as corrosive salts can, therefore the next step is to displace all of that water we just introduced into our gun. Ammonia does nothing to help neutralize or flush out the salts. Water and only water based products will assist with Corrosive Salts. At the range I disassembled the bolt and soaked it in Windex or WD40 heard this was ok to do. I then sprayed the WD40 down the barrel really good. I then ran some patches through it and took it right home.
At home, I disassemble everything again, and sprayed everything down very good with Break Free Powder Blast. It really seemed to blast everything away, get things clean, and it dries fast.
I then use a brush, patches, cleaners, and oils to perform the normal detailed cleaning. Any recommendations for an AR that shoots corrosive ammo? More than likely your corrosion occurred because you introduced moisture before you could reliably flush out the salts. The Windex was that moisture. Can this be used on all types of finishes such as nickel, stainless, and bluing? How about on black rifles such as an AR15? Is there any metal I should not use it on?
Replies appreciated. I bought Break Free because so many of you recommend it. Breakfree is a good product. It does not help flush out of neutralize corrosive salts left behind from corrosive ammunition. If you shoot corrosive ammo follow my instructions then follow with Breakfree CLP. Should you avoid using anything with Aluminum, such as AR15 Lowers? I heard at one time or another some problems with galling if you use the wrong lubes and cleaners. How much liquid through the Barrel is enough to make sure there's nothing Corrosive left behind?
After firing my Mauser I probably poured about 1 cup or so of hot soapy water down my Barrel. This was a new experience for me BTW, and then I let it drain for a few minutes, wiped down all the exposed metal and used CLP to clean and oil the rifle.
Did I use too much or too little Water? I think I'm going to try Windex next time and the same question applies. How much is enough? The Russians still like corrosive primers for military arms because — so I have been told — corrosive primers are far more reliable in cold weather conditions with a temperature significantly below zero.
When done shooting, but while the bore is still hot, remove the bolt. Clean the bolt face liberally with Windex. Also liberally spray Windex down the bore. Run Windex-saturated patches through the bore until they come out clean. Then run dry patches until there is no blue color, indicating Windex is still there. Clean the bolt with dry patches until they are clean. Saturate a patch with oil and run it down the bore; also coat the muzzle with oil.
Oil the bolt face. When home, clean normally. Many years ago, bought a case of surplus GI bore cleaner. Now shoot some surplus Czech ammo, and it has corrosive primers. As I use up the last of the GI bore cleaner, nice to know that there are good options available. Second on the recommendation for Ballistol. Smells like dirty socks but you mix it with hot water and give your rifle a bath. Rinse with the hottest water that you can stand. Dry with compressed air or a blow dryer, Liberally apply wd or something like that, wipe out excess and relubricate with chosen high quality product and your good to go.
I have some M? Great ammunition, much more consistent than cheap steel case stuff but unfortunately corrosive. Corrosive primer are not the only thing that causes corrosion. Some gun powders will will corrode right through the brass cases while sitting in storage under normal conditions.
I recently had examined 9mm ammo that I had loaded with Vhitavori N 10 years ago with new brass and bullets and federal primers. The powder corroded right through the cases. The exact same bullets during the same time and stored next to each other were made with Winchester WAP were pulled apart and showed zero signs of corrosion.
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